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The meaning of the Japanese word “shiba” is not very clear, though “inu” is certainly the Japanese word for “dog”. The dogs of this breed were originally bred for hunting and are very good at navigating their way over mountainous terrain. They are the smallest of the six original dog breeds originating from Japan, the other five being the Akita, the Hokkaido, the Kai, the Kishu, and the Shikoku.

Owing to its small size, shiba inu puppies require extra care after being born. They also require temperature regulation to keep them warm. These puppies are relatively easy to care for, as they are naturally clean, brushing being the only requirement. However, they are heavy shedders. It is also not advisable to bathe them often, four times a year being the appropriate frequency. They are relatively easy to housebreak, with no more than placing them outdoors after meals being enough to train them as to proper toileting.

Shiba inu puppies have a strong preying instinct. Therefore putting them on a leash is recommended, unless they are in a secure area. Otherwise they will go after all imaginable small animals which they regard as prey. However, placing them inside kennels for long periods of time is not recommended, as this will greatly affect their temperament. Obedience training at an early age is important, given the breed’s intelligent and independent nature. They can also be involved in occasional fights with other dogs, so it is important to closely monitor their interactions with other dog breeds.

Training shiba inu puppies require positive reinforcement, i.e. giving them praise, rewards and encouragement for manifesting obedience. Training sessions should be short but regular, conducted with patience and affection, and most of all, love and consideration. As this breed easily bonds with a caring owner, an affable temperament exhibited by the trainer will most likely do the job of teaching the puppies obedience.  As with all other puppies, they are prone to commit mistakes in view of their young age, but a consistent approach, characterized by firmness and gentleness, can transform them into highly obedient pets despite their independent temperament.

Shiba inu puppies are moderately active indoors. They also grow up to be hardy, weatherproof dogs, but do not like to be left alone outside. While they can adapt well to outdoor conditions, they seek affection from its owners, and so prefer to remain indoors. It has a tremendous endurance rate, and can last long enough for very lengthy walks.

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A dog with that disorder is unusually anxious when its owner prepares to leave the house. Even ordinary actions such as picking car keys or making one’s way toward the door can generate a lot of activity from the dog. It may bark, jump, and run around wildly, apparently with no reason at all.

In separation anxiety dogs only manifest unruly behavior when it is separated from its owner. However, when it is in the company of its owner, such unruly behavior is brought to a minimum. In order to ease the tension, the dog will always follow its owner wherever he or she may go, and if it fails to keep track, a lot of inappropriate actions can be expected from it.

If by some chance the owner succeeds in shaking off the dog, leaves the house, and returns, the dog be “overjoyed” upon sensing that its master has indeed returned. This hyperactivity usually requires some time to dissipate.

If all these symptoms concur, there is a great chance that it suffers from separation anxiety dog.

To treat this disorder, the following simple procedure may be adopted.

• The owner should start ignoring the “wild” behavior his or her dog exhibits every time he or she starts to leave. Little by little the dog will get used to it. This should be reinforced by obedience training during periods when dog and owner and spending time together. Little by little the dog will get used to its owners temporary absences.

• The next step to address separation anxiety dog is to let the dog enjoy the outdoors while the owner remains indoors. Some sort of distraction can be provided, for example a toy with which the dog can play. However, the owner must be alert enough to step out and be reunited with the dog as soon as it starts showing symptoms of the disorder. This should also be repeated until the dog gets used to it.

• The third step is to note the immediate causes of its anxiety and eliminate them. For example, if the dog is alerted when it hears its owner jingling car keys, such must be avoided. Separation anxiety can be cured in time by using these approaches, as the common denominator of all these is to make the dog used to temporary absences for lengthening periods of time. Once the dog has started to cope and refrains from exhibiting inappropriate behavior, the owner can tell that it has cured its dog of the disorder.

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Generally well-treated dogs do not attack randomly, unless they are infected with rabies. Well-treated dogs include those which are given the freedom to walk around even while on a leash, or those which have sufficient playtime with persons or other dogs. However, maltreated dogs are more often scared than not and will use whatever faculties they have to defend themselves.

It takes more than maltreatment to make a scared dog. Dogs faced with stronger, more powerful enemies get scared. So do dogs which are exposed to repetitive loud noises. Whatever the source of their fear may be, fear naturally affects their temperament, and this does not bode well to an owner-pet relationship.

So what happens if a dog is scared? Different reactions may take place. Dogs may retreat at first, and then bounce back if cornered. Or they may immediately fight back, not out of aggression, but because of the imminent danger to their security.

It is imperative to observe proper measures to alleviate a scared dog’s fear. After all, it is what every owner should do. While a dog’s feelings may not be as acute as that of a human, they have instincts which tell them what to do, and more intelligent breeds can identify potentially threatening situations. Thus, care and affection should be given to a pet dog to keep its behavior manageable and desirable at the same time.

Punishing a pet dog using violent means is not advisable. It increases the risk of having it see you as an enemy, which in turn will increase the likelihood that it will attack if it sees the chance. Less severe penalties should be meted out, not out of spite, but out of desire to train the scared dog in a way it is supposed to behave.

Dogs respond to training more favorably if they feel that they are cared for. Some breeds attach to only one owner, sometimes to very few people. Therefore dog trainers should not use an approach which will intimidate, scare or threaten a dog, as this will only make it harder for them to achieve the desired effect.

A scared dog deserves proper attention. If neglected, this will lead to dire consequences, such as failure to render basic obedience, and worse, attacks against the owner, his or her immediate family or housemates, and strangers. No animal deserves to be treated cruelly, and this applies to dogs of every breed. It must be remembered that dogs make faithful companions when treated nicely, but they can also turn to formidable enemies if maltreated.

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It is important to start with basic obedience training when the Great Dane is still a puppy. This will ensure that training will go smoothly as it grows. A situation involving a troublesome, disobedient Great Dane is always frightening, and it pays to keep it under control the earliest time possible.

The first thing to do is to walk the dog using a leash. The handler has to make sure that the dog does not pull the leash to whatever direction it wants. Rather, the dog should learn to obey the tugs of the handler. This way obedience is instilled and once obedience is instilled, praise should be given. This “inspires” the dog to render obedience again in your future Great Dane training.

If the dog starts pulling, the handler should stop. This way the dog realizes that what it is doing is wrong. If it still offers resistance, pulling towards the opposite direction may do the trick. That tact startles it and allows itself to be pulled away.

Also, a Great Dane should socialize with other dogs. Being left alone with no one to interact with only makes it a fierce creature, incapable of getting along well with people and other dogs and becoming a source of fear instead of admiration.  Great Danes are by nature affectionate animals, so it is important to develop the affection it possesses within.

Consistency is vital in Great Dane training. The dog must sense that the handler is serious about what he or she is doing. Nevertheless, a suitable degree of affection must be maintained. Timeliness and repetition are also keys to success.

Most people are afraid of training Great Danes. It comes not as a surprise, because the very size of the dog is enough to intimidate the bravest man. However, what many people don’t know is that Great Danes are affectionate dogs, and are obedient if subjected to training at an early age.

Great Dane training is a very rewarding experience. The very fact that you have helped a dog of such humungous size master obedience is no small feat. It brings a sense of satisfaction and pride on the part of the owner, and contentment on the part of the pet. It also instills a sense of belonging on the part of the dog, especially if much praise and encouragement is employed. As the old adage goes, patience is a virtue. Being patient in training Great Danes will surely pay off in time, and no one can be a prouder owner than its handler.

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Upper respiratory tract infections caused by airborne viruses and bacteria may cause sneezing. It is important to isolate animals who exhibit the symptom accompanied by nasal discharge and fever. This is because while some animal diseases that cause sneezing are not passable to humans, they can easily be transmitted to other animals.

Dog sneezing may also be caused by temporary irritations. This happens when certain particles such as dust, pollen or mold enter the nasal area. In order to get rid of these particles, a dog’s natural mechanism will trigger sneezing. This is usually a less serious cause and does not call for intensive medical treatment unless otherwise determined.

Allergic reactions can also cause sneezing. Allergens such as pollen, dust, debris, chemicals and even some types of food may cause dogs to sneeze. This cause however is non-contagious, but a veterinarian should be consulted just to make sure that no other more serious cause is involved.

Among the more serious causes of dog sneezing are tumors and sinus and dental problems or infections. These require immediate medical attention and care.

Sneezing caused by tumors is usually accompanied by bloody nasal discharges from the nostrils. Polyps that develop along the nasal passages, whether cancerous or benign, may cause irritation and, subsequently, sneezing. A build-up of abscess in the case of an infection of the dog’s teeth may also trigger sneezing. Any of these causes are enough to cause severe suffering on the dog, and a trip to the veterinarian may put it out of trouble.

Usually dog sneezing is taken for granted by most owners, reasoning out that it is only natural. Indeed it is natural, for even humans sneeze, but a natural cause may be a severe one. Procrastination in determining the cause and seeking remedies can only lead to detrimental effects to both the dog and its owner. It is only when it is too late do people realize that they should have gone to the veterinarian before hand.

Natural remedies should be considered first before resorting to drugs. Immediate reliance on drugs, when misplaced, can only aggravate the situation. Sometimes the cause for dog sneezing may not be life-threatening (but in any case if an owner is not sure he or she should visit the veterinarian with the dog), and overreaction can only do the dog more harm than good. Thus a carefully-measured, intelligent response should always be given whenever a dog sneezes.

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The size of the dog lhasa apso makes it a cute pet, and indeed it strives to please its owner. But its burglar alarm-like character is what makes it a prized guardian of the house. It works well with larger dogs, alerting them of the presence of an intruder or enemy. It has a high sense of obedience, devotedness and affection, but is never a weakling. It is a hardy breed. Occasionally, some dogs of this breed develop the attitude of leadership over humans. Thus it is not surprising if they exert much effort to get their owners’ attention, becoming irritating at times. The breed is also not very friendly towards children.

The dog lhasa apso has been depicted as a girlie pet, groomed extravagantly with ribbons and clips to keep its double-coated hair in place. Indeed its small size makes it a favorite among women, not knowing that the breed is revered by Tibetans. This is not to say that modern pop culture has degraded the status of the breed, but has, in effect, simply transformed its image into a much more affectionate one. A dog of this breed is not hard to love, as its attachment to its human owners can be very enjoyable to observe.

Its long coat of fur primarily distinguished the dog lhasa apso from other breeds. The coat needs daily combing to keep it in good condition. Hair fall is frequent, given the two coats the breed exhibits. Whereas the outer coat does not shed much hair, the inner coat does, and this may pose a threat to people with asthma. As with other dogs, it needs a daily walk, but a moderate amount of space is enough for its playtime requirements. This however should not stop the owner from exposing it to large spaces.

Early socialization and obedience training is important. Training given to a lhasa apso at an advanced age may cause problems between it and its owner, for, as mentioned earlier, it tends to assert itself to the point of becoming aggressive. It must also be remembered that a dog of this breed bond to one person only, perhaps a few, so several people training it may not be a very good idea.

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Finishing the course once does not necessarily mean that the training has been completed. The aim is not to finish the course per se but to develop a dog’s agility, precision and speed. A dog may have finished a course, but its responses may not be satisfactory. In such a situation another trip around the course is needed.

Dog agility training is specific, and if a dog does not know basic obedience yet, proceeding with the training is useless. Basic obedience training improves a dog’s temperament and increases its attention span, which will make it adapt better to the rigors of higher levels of training. Once basic obedience has been inculcated in the dog, the trainer can then focus on agility. Training of this type can begin at any age, as long as the dog’s health permits. However, extra care must be given to dogs less than a year old to prevent injuries to their underdeveloped joints. The dog may be subjected to simpler training aids and courses first, before moving up to more complicated ones.

Training techniques and equipment vary, and so do dogs’ responses. Maneuvering around or about some equipment are naturally more difficult than in others. A dog’s build and physical characteristics may also affect its ability to cope. Moreover, confident dogs are easy to train, but are susceptible to developing a cocky attitude which will render it “deaf” to its handler’s commands. Timid dogs, on the other hand, require more effort for them to overcome their shyness.

It is important to measure the response of a dog to the training. Dog agility trainings are not hit-and-miss sessions, but a complete, continuous course that does not discount repetition among its requirements. Thus a dog may become receptive or else regressive. To address the latter state, conditioning must first be done to avoid forcing a dog into a situation which it is not prepared to face. A dog must be fit enough to run, walk and jump whenever the handler commands it to. Otherwise the dog may get exhausted, shy away, or worse, fall sick.

It must be remembered that improving the pet-owner relationship is of paramount importance in dog agility training. A dog undergoing that training should feel satisfied and appreciated. A handler must be careful in pursuing his intended course of actions during training. Otherwise the opposite of what is intended to be achieved may just take place.

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Given suitable conditions, the basenji dog is not difficult to care for. It needs enough space for a lot of exercise though, being a very active breed. It enjoys the company of other basenjis, which may serve as its playmates and which also helps it maintain its active lifestyle. Oftentimes behavior problems arise when the dog is left alone, or is deprived of enough opportunity to exert physical effort. It is also a very “clean” dog, in that it washes itself the same way a cat does and exhibits no smell characteristic of most dog breeds. It loses very little hair, which makes it a good pet for people with asthma and other allergies. Also, the breed dislikes water and wet weather.

People who attach easily to animals, who are patient enough to take dogs for a long walk, and who enjoy playing with their pets make suitable masters to the basenji dog. The breed displays an admirable sense of loyalty, but can be very reserved when it comes to strangers. Being a hunting dog, it loves to chase small animals and even small objects thrown at its way. Thus, non-canine pets should not be entrusted to its company. Despite its high-level of activity, the breed is relatively silent, meaning that it makes noise very infrequently. This trait often leads to a mismatch between pet and owner, because most owners misinterpret “silent” as inactive. Thus the dog is a shining example of a silent dog with a high level of activity.

The basenji dog originated from Africa, and was a favorite pet of Egypt’s Pharaohs. Remains of it dating from the first to the second century A.D. were even found in Athens. The breed was first noted by Europeans coming to Congo in the late nineteenth century. The Europeans noted the esteem which the breed enjoys from the Congans and, brushing aside disputes as to its actual intelligence, considered the dog as a suitable hunting assistant. Attempts were made to bring the breed to Great Britain, but it took until the 1930s to successfully establish a stock in England. Americans followed suit, and the breed spread into the New World.

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Before you go ahead and purchase complete equipment you have to consider first the size of your backyard and what you can place on it.  If you like to get the standard 12 foot dog walk but it will not fit in your backyard, then you just have to get an 8 foot dog walk instead.  Even if you also want a single and a triple jump in your course, but since it will not fit might as well get four single jumps.

The second important thing you need to consider before buying dog agility equipment is the size and speed of your dog.  This is important because your dog will be the one who will go through the obstacles, and you don’t want him stuck in a tunnel every time your dog goes in there.   Commonly use for agility jumps are 3/4” PVC or the 1” PVC, so if your dog is just small and light then the ¾” will do and you will have more room on your budget.

But since these are sanctioned sports, different organizations have different rules and dimensions for the creation of obstacles.  However, the same basic forms of most obstacles are being used.  Obstacle will have the following:

Contac Obstacles

A-Frame – these type of agility equipment are two spacious ramps, that are usually about 3 feet wide by 8 to 9 feet long, joint together and then raised so the link between the two ramps is between five and six and a quarter feet above the ground, the height will depend on the organization, but it will be more or less form an A shape.  Both ramps are colored, usually yellow that makes the contact zone, where the dog needs to place at least one paw while he is ascending or descending.

Dogwalk – this type of obstacle also has contact zones, and most organizations require board on the dogwalk ramps.  These are compose of three 8 to 12 ft planks with a 9 to 12 in. Of wide connected at the end.  You also need to raise the centre plank for about 4 feet above the ground, and the two planks will create a ramp up and down to the centre plank.

Teeter-totter – is a 10 by 12 foot slat swinging on a pivot, just like a regular seesaw.  One end will always return to the ground since it is made slightly off balance.  This agility equipment also has contact zone but with the exception of the planks.

Tunnels

Tunnel – These tunnels are made up of flexible vinyl and wire, so it can be arrange in a straight line or in different curves.  Vinyl tubes are usually 10 by 20 feet long with about 2 feet in diameter, where dogs run through.

Collapsed tunnel – also known as chute or cloth tunnel is a log like cylinder with a tube attached around one end.  It is about 8 by 12 feet and only opens when the dogs runs into the open end of the cloth or chute and weave his way out on the other end.

Other Tunnels – only UKC allows other agility equipment tunnel types and these are the crawl tunnel and the hoop tunnel.

Here are some more agility equipment that are being used by different organization:

Jumps

• Jumps or Hurdle
• Double or Triple (also known as Spread Jump)
• Panel Jump
• Broad Jump or Long Jump
• Tire Jump

Miscellaneous

• Table or Pause table
• Pause Box
• Weave Poles

There are a lot of other agility equipment that are being used, before you buy any of them always consider your budget, the place where you will put it and of course your dog.  Always have fun training your dog.

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However in the United States some people tried dog agility basically based on the British rule.  In the early 1980s the first exhibition began, and the groups that started it were the NDCA and the USDAA.  Now, the NDCA has already merged with UKC leaving USDAA as the major force in the U.S dog agility world.  A lot of events and competitions are arrange by local clubs, but are still being authorize by an organization like the USDAA or UKC.  These organizations give out titles, keep records and established the rules.

In definition, dog agility is type of dog sport where in dog handlers guide their dogs through an obstacle course in a contest for both time and accuracy.  Dogs run without leash and handlers cannot touch both the dog and the obstacle.  They are also not allowed to give dog’s food or toys as reward.  Dog agility requires a lot of training of the dog and a lot of expertise of the handler, because commands are only through voice, movement and different body language.

Agility course are made up of an established standard obstacles, created by an agility judge in a lay out of his or her own choice within a 30 x 30 m area.  Agility judge will also determine the order on how the dogs can complete the obstacle.  These courses are very complicated for dogs, that they need human direction to correctly complete them.  During competition, handlers evaluate the course, make strategies and then guide the dog through the course in a fast and precise manner.  A lot of strategies are available to compensate for the obvious difference in dogs and handlers speed, together with their weakness and strengths they can overcome dog agility.

Scoring of every runs is according on how many “faults” are made.  There are penalties that includes “course faults” when they knock down a bar in a jump or a “time faults” happens when they go over the calculated standard course time that were determine according to the competition level and the difficulty of the course and other factors.

Because of the available set of obstacle and possible faults there are a lot of variations of games or what they call classes that are only played on the dog agility field. Some of the classes are:

• Standard, Regular or Agility – this type of course usually consist of at least one of the three initial contact obstacles but not including crossover, these are jumps, tunnels and weave poles of different flavours.

• Jumpers or Jumping – this type of course now consist mostly of different types of jumps but depending on the organization they also includes poles and tunnels.

• Gamblers, Jackpot or Joker – this class typically, made up of two parts the opening and the closing parts that is commonly known as the gamble, jackpot or joker.  During the opening they have a certain amount of time to do anything with in the obstacle and they will be scored according to the obstacle they completed.  Then the closing part, they are given about 15 seconds to complete a sequence of obstacle assigned by the judge of the dog agility ahead of time.

• Snooker – Literally based on the billiard game, the course has at least three red jumps, which are numbered 1, and then six other numbered 2 to 7. Dogs will accumulate points based on the obstacle’s number.

• Power and Speed – this has two sections the first one is untimed called “Power” section that has contact equipment. If they clear it without faults they will be able to continue on to the second section which is the “Speed” which is a timed jumping course.

• Juniors – these are for handlers that are 18 yrs or younger who wants to join in dog agility, it consist of four levels beginner, elementary, intermediate and senior.

• Team, Pairs or Relay – team needs to complete a portion of a standard agility course, with handlers needs to exchange a baton between sections, teams are consist of two to three dog and handlers.

After reading this, you might say that your dog will not do that, although it requires a lot of patience and practice, you and your dog will surely have lots of fun.  Before you proceed and try this sport make sure that you and your dog are fit and ready for the rigors of Dog Agility.